I had the profound pleasure of visiting Exposed: A History of Lingerie at the Fashion Institute of Technology in my own time this past week.
The exhibition chronicles the development of female intimate apparel from the 18th century to modern times. It was a small space, but more than 70 pieces from FIT's permanent collection were on display. Most interesting was what the exhibition hoped to capture, and it was a vision that was translated clearly to the viewer. I was able to see the subtle transition in fashion and technological trends, change in ideals of society and their subsequent impact on the silhouettes and overall appearances of the lingerie produced. As a fashion design BFA student, being able to witness this evolution up close and personal was a great experience.
For example, the trend of enhancing the breasts to give them a larger, fuller look and create an erotic allure goes all the way back to the 18th century. The underwiring of the corset below was forged from whalebone, providing a tighter and more structured fit, enhancing the bust while cinching at the waist to give the illusion of an hourglass figure. While underwear was meant to maintain a woman's modesty, it had to give he a beautiful shapeliness too. From thereon, it could be seen that the 19th century favoured female underwear started out with a focus on functionality, simple in design and made of humble materials.
The 20th century on the other hand saw an evolution towards functionality, with women's lives demanded comfort and ability to move freely - cue the creation of the bra, as well as a more streamlined silhouette, changing to correspond to their slimmer, shaplier outerwear counterparts.
Technological advancements allowed elasticized girdles to replace constricting corsets, while thinner, more delicate materials like lace provided ease in movement while simultaneously oozing with sex appeal. Lingerie was no longer just a complement to an outfit, worn to be hidden - it had become a fashion category all on its own, opening an endless exploration of design possibilities.
Aesthetically, the exhibition was a visual feast as well. I especially loved Suki Cohen's neoprene body suit and bolero jacket which were both made from stretch nylon and neoprene. The structure is impeccable!
